In the fast-paced world of fashion, where trends rise and fall like the tides, it’s rare to encounter a timeless gem that stands as a testament to centuries-old artistry.
But the RL 888 collection is such a gem. Born from a legacy of Italian craftsmanship and unparalleled leatherworking, Ralph Lauren’s signature bag collection finds itself at the intersection of time-honored tradition and future-forward innovation.
It is perhaps this alluring juxtaposition of old and new that initially drew our editorial staff to the RL 888. We first saw it in our design team’s Madison Avenue office—the quintessential lady bag, seated atop an oak-paneled desk and framed by a sweeping view of the Manhattan skyline.
On first glance, the polished design and structured silhouette recalled a myriad of inspirations—from Art Deco architectural details found amid turn-of-the-century skyscrapers to the sleek designs of classic race cars to the (more obvious but none-the-less impactful) top-handled bags carried by Old Hollywood starlets on- and off-screen. And yet, a cursory look inside the bag’s making reveals a story far older and a legacy far more alluring than the designs convey alone.
At the heart of the RL 888 lies a story of Italian craftsmanship, centered in Florence, in small workshops that dot the banks of the Arno River and beyond. It is nearby, in a charming corner of southern Europe, where Trevor Smith and a small film crew explored the history behind Ralph Lauren’s newest bag and the people who created it.
History of Italian Craftsmanship
The origins of Italy’s thriving leather industry can be traced back to ancient practices that continue to inspire the modern trade in Florence. Centuries ago, craftsmen in the region discovered that drying and smoking hides extended their durability, making them suitable for various applications, including clothing, accessories, and armor. Additionally, the proximity of Florence’s Arno River played a crucial role in the leathermaking process. Access to flowing water was essential for soaking and tanning leather, and the Arno River provided leatherworkers with an ideal location for this purpose.
The development of vegetable tanning, documented as early as 400 B.C. in ancient Egypt, involved immersing leather in water with bark, leaves, and berries, a technique still used by artisans until the late 19th century. The breakthrough came in 1910 with the invention of chrome tanning, automating the process and propelling production to an industrial level. Today, Italy’s leather districts, such as Santa Croce sull’Arno, boast a rich heritage, where the melding of ancient wisdom and modern technology fuels the creation of unparalleled leather goods.
Modern Italian Leatherworking
Today, Florence’s leather artisans carry on this long-standing legacy of craftsmanship, blending time-honored technique with modern innovation. So, too, the leather districts across Italy have become centers of excellence, attracting designers and connoisseurs alike, seeking the finest quality and artistry. It is no wonder then that Ralph Lauren thoughtfully selected Tripel Due, a prominent leather goods manufacturer run by a family of Florentine artisans, to bring his vision of the RL 888 to life.
How It’s Made: An Ode to Craftsmanship
To create a thing of beauty, the bag’s structured silhouette is crafted with the finest Italian box calfskin. Skillfully selected from the roll, 36 pristine pieces are artfully hand-cut. This luxurious leather lends a sleek shine, smooth texture, and structure to the RL 888 silhouette.
The sculptural RL logo, offered in palladium, brass, or champagne finishes, serves as a dynamic closure featuring an elevated push lock—embodying graceful function within luxurious form.
Ultimately, the RL 888 collection becomes a statement in craftsmanship, a story in distinctive details, and a style, a signature, all its own.
Interview with David Rulli and Mirko Giusti of Tripel Due
To delve deeper into the world of Italian craftsmanship, we sent a small crew to Florence to document the making of the RL 888 at Tripel Due. Inside the small patternmaking shop, a quiet hum filled the air as artisans stitched the box calf leather into the iconic silhouette. There, amid the cutting tables and bolts of leather, David Rulli, CEO of Tripel Due, and Mirko Giusti, the master leatherworker who oversees pattern, shared their process, their company’s legacy, and their thoughts on the future of Italian craftsmanship.
Trevor: Thank you so much for having us.
David: We’re so happy to have you. Benvenuti a firenze!
Trevor: Florence is such a wonderful city, and I’m struck by how its vibrant energy is reflected in your workshop—from the scents, the sights, the sounds. How would you set the scene for our readers at home who may not have a chance to experience this place firsthand?
Mirko: Well, Florence is a city of contrasts—a beautiful city and a beautiful contour of hills, colors, and landscape. The air that you breathe, the scents that you breathe are wonderful.
David: It’s a city full of art and history—you have the Duomo, you have Palazzo Vecchio, you have Ponte Vecchio, all the bridges over the Arno River. You see a wonderful world opening up in front of you. It’s inspiring—and influences much of what we make.
Trevor: Tell me about the feeling of being inside the Tripel Due workshop? What is most memorable for you?
Mirko: Being inside the patternmaking shop, I think of the pounding of the hammers, the noises of the sewing machines, the noises of the machinery being used, and the smells even of leather or leather glue.
David: [For me], it’s the feel of natural leather. It gives you that feeling of softness, of beauty. Just by touch this is then translated into the pieces we create.
Trevor: What can you tell us about the history of your family’s involvement in leatherworking?
Mirko: I began my career because of my father’s teachings, since it was the job he always did since he was a boy. Seeing him assembling items, objects, that from small components would come out and an object would be born, it always fascinated me. He would have me sit there next to his workbench and hand me some pieces of leather or filler. With those, he would have me try to create something on my own—to [inspire] some inventiveness and imagination—while he clearly built something more beautiful.
My goal was to emulate him, and I hope to continue to do this today, [as a way of] thanking him. [Because of him,] I have a sense of pride when I make items that last over time and can pass from hand to hand, from generation to generation.
Trevor: Could you tell us how you ensure the legacy of Italian craftsmanship lives on in your factory and in your craft?
Mirko: For our company, the tradition behind Tripel is very important. We try to incorporate new technologies within the company to facilitate people’s work, but without losing the past [or our] values of craftsmanship.
David: I couldn’t agree more. Our quest is to maintain the skills that have been acquired by those who came before us in order to be able to give a product that is always new, but with the experience, with the know-how that has been accumulated over the years. We should not lose what has been done over time.
Trevor: We should preserve it.
David: Exactly.
Trevor: Can I ask if you ever feel a weight on your shoulders to uphold the techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation? How do you balance this with a need to modernize and innovate within your field?
David: Yes. Of course. It is so important to try to renew yourself, to try to learn new techniques, to find the machinery that supports you in simplifying the work, but always having in mind the concept that the product must look like it is totally handmade, even if we had the help of machinery. It shouldn’t be a cold product, it shouldn’t be something that doesn’t have a soul; it should always look alive to look like what it is, which is an artifact. A work of art.
Trevor: What do you hope the future looks like for artisans in your field?
David: For me, I hope that the leather goods industry continues to evolve, but I also hope that the hand of man is always needed so that we do not lose this know-how that we have and have handed down for so many years now.
Mirko: Good. [laughs] Just as David said, I hope that the company, both ours and the factories that work within leather goods, evolve technologically, but never lose that touch of craftsmanship that sets them apart. I hope that there will always be generational turnover, that the craft will be handed down from generation to generation, as it was to me from my father.
Trevor: That was beautiful. Thank you both so much for your time.
Mirko: Of course. Sei sempre il benvenuto.
The Tradition Continues
Born from the passion and dedication of artisans and entrepreneurs like Mirko Giusti and David Rulli, the legacy of Italian craftsmanship continues to thrive in both the world of luxury leather goods and in the tranquil heart of historic Florence. In this way, the RL 888 collection stands as a tribute to Italian heritage and American style, intertwining history and modernity to create a story that we hope will endure well into the future.
- © Ralph Lauren Corporation
