There may exist some Platonic ideal of the perfect chino: a combination of fabric, fit, and detailing that captures the spirit of the garment in its truest, most desirable form. Perhaps it’s their historical starting point as 19th-century military trousers of the British Indian Army, which were extra loose-fitting to accommodate the punishing subcontinental heat, dyed tan to match the surrounding terrain, and named after the Urdu word khaki, meaning “soil-colored.”

But for Ralph Lauren, the chino isn’t an idealized design frozen in amber—it’s a canvas, customized countless times in new renditions from new inspirations over the years, each iteration unique and stylish in its own right. Consider the belted-and-pleated “Gurkha” chino, which shares the original’s Indo-military provenance. Or American military chinos, which spread from standard-issue to civilian sportswear after the Spanish–American war. Or historical workwear designs, with hard-wearing riveted buttons and carpenter details. You’ll find chinos in generous double pleats, or slim-straight flat fronts. Woven in heavy rustic twills with double-needle details to wear with work boots, or a finer weave with single-needle stitching better suited to a pair of penny loafers. Each has a unique vintage provenance, and each serves a different style purpose.