The New Orleans Insider’s Guide
The best spots to eat, places to stay, and things to do in the Big Easy“Of all secret cities, New Orleans, so it seems to me, is the most secretive, the most unlike, in reality, what an outsider is permitted to observe,” Truman Capote once wrote. “The prevalence of steep walls, of obscuring foliage, of tall thick locked iron gates, of shuttered windows, of dark tunnels leading to overgrown gardens where mimosa and camellias contrast colors, and lazing lizards, flicking their forked tongues, race along palm fronds—all this is not accidental décor, but architecture deliberately concocted to camouflage, to mask, as at a Mardi Gras Ball, the lives of those born to live among these protective edifices.” Indeed, the city is so full of stealth beauty that it feels like nowhere else in America, with its 300-year-old melting pot of culture, rich architectural history, vibrant artistry, and eccentric social tradition. Just off the tourist-trodden track are countless charming neighborhoods lined with pastel cottages as cheerful as Easter eggs, camelback shotgun houses with decorative scrolled Victorian brackets, and double-gallery French Colonials with ornate cast-iron balconies—a colorful, maximalist feast for the eyes. From new designer hotels to old-school eateries, here is our locals-approved list of where to stay, eat, drink, and shop in New Orleans.
STAY
Hotel Peter & Paul
New York–based ASH NYC design firm transformed this former 1860s church, redbrick rectory, and old schoolhouse in the Marigny into a transporting boutique property, where 71 rooms with Madeleine Castaing–esque canopied beds and gingham-covered settees take cues from the Alhambra in Spain, Cy Twombly’s palazzo in Rome, and late-18th-century Gustavian design. In the Rectory, the intimate Elysian Bar with Italianate fireplaces and swathes of orange-vine florals is ideal for a long, lazy lunch, while the James Beard–nominated wine bar Bacchanal is the perfect antidote to the touristy crowds of Bourbon Street.
Hotel Saint Vincent
Plush velvet fabrics, psychedelic custom Voutsa wallpapers, vintage 1970s chandeliers—this newly opened 75-room hotel with a sprawling outdoor swimming pool in the Lower Garden District occupies a former orphanage from the 19th century. Grab a meal at the Italian-Creole–inspired restaurant San Lorenzo, followed by a nightcap at Chapel Club, the guests-only cocktail bar entered via a neon-lit passageway.
Maison de la Luz Hotel
With 67 rooms, this historic Art Deco guesthouse designed by Studio Shamshiri features scalloped bedding and airy marble bathrooms—giving it the discrete feel of a sanctuary-like secret hideaway. Don’t miss the English library–inspired scarlet speakeasy Bar Marilou, which you access through a hidden bookcase, and the bright lapis blue Breakfast Room with its oversize botanical motifs.
EAT AND DRINK
Galatoire’s Restaurant
Tuxedoed waiters swan around this iconic, old-school Bourbon Street restaurant founded back in 1905. French bistro chairs, ceiling fans, forest-green wallpapers, and crisp white tablecloths hearken back to the city’s golden age at this stalwart that’s as popular among travelers as it is with locals. A Friday lunch here is a rite of passage—just take it from the high-society ladies sipping Sazeracs from lunch ’til midnight.
Lilette Restaurant
Occupying a late-1800s corner drugstore with plate-glass windows, Lilette is a little romantic hideaway with wine-colored walls and a candle-lit outdoor garden. Stand-out dishes on the menu include the duck confit and bouillabaisse.
Black Penny
Tucked just off Bourbon Street, this dimly-lit dive bar with exposed brick walls set in a 19th-century space serves over 100 different craft beers. The bar staff, who treat you like a local, is more than up-to-speed on all their offerings, and there’s a sort of sawdusty allure to the whole place.
The Sazerac Bar
Just one look at the Paul Ninas murals flanking the leather-backed chairs and African walnut bar sends you back to the grandeur of old New Orleans. The Sazerac cocktail was invented here, making it the perfect spot to sip back their Rye whiskey and bitter concoctions mixed up in an absinthe rocks glass. Tuxedoed bartenders will talk history as well as mixology into the wee morning hours.
SHOP
Lucullus
Named after a Roman general famous for being addicted to luxury and throwing lavish banquets, this old-school culinary antiques shop has been a must-stop since 1984—and is still brimming with ornate glassware, Edwardian silver, and fine English china from the 17th to 19th centuries. Owner and design writer Patrick Dunne carefully curates everything from the porcelain platters to the vintage table linens.
Faulkner House Books
Set in Pirate’s Alley off Jackson Square, this literary landmark is full of limited-edition books, curated classics, and cozy charm. In 1925, novelist William Faulkner himself rented rooms in the same building and finished up his first novel, Soldiers’ Pay. Today, mahogany bookcases and antique pieces fill the shop, which is a favorite among locals and a must-see for bibliophiles.
Euclid Records
Vinyl, CDs, and cassettes fill this magenta-pink Bywater music shop, which is home to a killer selection of New Orleans jazz, funk, and rarities. The staff is full of colorful characters too, and the store frequently hosts live in-store performances and meet-and-greets.
SEE
Besthoff Sculpture Garden
Amidst a landscape of magnolias, live oaks, and pines surrounding twin lagoons, this 11-acre outdoor sculpture garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art features works by Frank Stella, Ugo Rondinone, Robert Longo, and Frank Gehry. Must-see artworks commissioned specifically for the garden include a 60-foot mosaic wall by artist Teresita Fernández and a glass bridge by Elyn Zimmerman.
New Orleans Pharmacy Museum
Housed in the apothecary on Chartres Street that once belonged to America’s first-ever licensed pharmacist, this quirky museum showcases the history of medicine in the 19th century. You’ll find voodoo potions, handblown apothecary bottles, and heaps of antique ephemera showcasing quirky and quixotic prescriptive orders.
Audubon Park
Named after the naturalist John James Audubon, this 350-acre Uptown park is full of shady alleys of Spanish oaks, picturesque bridges, and meandering walking paths. With riding stables, tennis courts, jogging trails, and a tranquil lagoon, it’s an ideal respite from the boisterous city.
STAY
Hotel Peter & Paul
New York–based ASH NYC design firm transformed this former 1860s church, redbrick rectory, and old schoolhouse in the Marigny into a transporting boutique property, where 71 rooms with Madeleine Castaing–esque canopied beds and gingham-covered settees take cues from the Alhambra in Spain, Cy Twombly’s palazzo in Rome, and late-18th-century Gustavian design. In the Rectory, the intimate Elysian Bar with Italianate fireplaces and swathes of orange-vine florals is ideal for a long, lazy lunch, while the James Beard–nominated wine bar Bacchanal is the perfect antidote to the touristy crowds of Bourbon Street.
Hotel Saint Vincent
Plush velvet fabrics, psychedelic custom Voutsa wallpapers, vintage 1970s chandeliers—this newly opened 75-room hotel with a sprawling outdoor swimming pool in the Lower Garden District occupies a former orphanage from the 19th century. Grab a meal at the Italian-Creole–inspired restaurant San Lorenzo, followed by a nightcap at Chapel Club, the guests-only cocktail bar entered via a neon-lit passageway.
Maison de la Luz Hotel
With 67 rooms, this historic Art Deco guesthouse designed by Studio Shamshiri features scalloped bedding and airy marble bathrooms—giving it the discrete feel of a sanctuary-like secret hideaway. Don’t miss the English library–inspired scarlet speakeasy Bar Marilou, which you access through a hidden bookcase, and the bright lapis blue Breakfast Room with its oversize botanical motifs.
EAT AND DRINK
Galatoire’s Restaurant
Tuxedoed waiters swan around this iconic, old-school Bourbon Street restaurant founded back in 1905. French bistro chairs, ceiling fans, forest-green wallpapers, and crisp white tablecloths hearken back to the city’s golden age at this stalwart that’s as popular among travelers as it is with locals. A Friday lunch here is a rite of passage—just take it from the high-society ladies sipping Sazeracs from lunch ’til midnight.
Lilette Restaurant
Occupying a late-1800s corner drugstore with plate-glass windows, Lilette is a little romantic hideaway with wine-colored walls and a candle-lit outdoor garden. Stand-out dishes on the menu include the duck confit and bouillabaisse.
Black Penny
Tucked just off Bourbon Street, this dimly-lit dive bar with exposed brick walls set in a 19th-century space serves over 100 different craft beers. The bar staff, who treat you like a local, is more than up-to-speed on all their offerings, and there’s a sort of sawdusty allure to the whole place.
The Sazerac Bar
Just one look at the Paul Ninas murals flanking the leather-backed chairs and African walnut bar sends you back to the grandeur of old New Orleans. The Sazerac cocktail was invented here, making it the perfect spot to sip back their Rye whiskey and bitter concoctions mixed up in an absinthe rocks glass. Tuxedoed bartenders will talk history as well as mixology into the wee morning hours.
SHOP
Lucullus
Named after a Roman general famous for being addicted to luxury and throwing lavish banquets, this old-school culinary antiques shop has been a must-stop since 1984—and is still brimming with ornate glassware, Edwardian silver, and fine English china from the 17th to 19th centuries. Owner and design writer Patrick Dunne carefully curates everything from the porcelain platters to the vintage table linens.
Faulkner House Books
Set in Pirate’s Alley off Jackson Square, this literary landmark is full of limited-edition books, curated classics, and cozy charm. In 1925, novelist William Faulkner himself rented rooms in the same building and finished up his first novel, Soldiers’ Pay. Today, mahogany bookcases and antique pieces fill the shop, which is a favorite among locals and a must-see for bibliophiles.
Euclid Records
Vinyl, CDs, and cassettes fill this magenta-pink Bywater music shop, which is home to a killer selection of New Orleans jazz, funk, and rarities. The staff is full of colorful characters too, and the store frequently hosts live in-store performances and meet-and-greets.
SEE
Besthoff Sculpture Garden
Amidst a landscape of magnolias, live oaks, and pines surrounding twin lagoons, this 11-acre outdoor sculpture garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art features works by Frank Stella, Ugo Rondinone, Robert Longo, and Frank Gehry. Must-see artworks commissioned specifically for the garden include a 60-foot mosaic wall by artist Teresita Fernández and a glass bridge by Elyn Zimmerman.
New Orleans Pharmacy Museum
Housed in the apothecary on Chartres Street that once belonged to America’s first-ever licensed pharmacist, this quirky museum showcases the history of medicine in the 19th century. You’ll find voodoo potions, handblown apothecary bottles, and heaps of antique ephemera showcasing quirky and quixotic prescriptive orders.
Audubon Park
Named after the naturalist John James Audubon, this 350-acre Uptown park is full of shady alleys of Spanish oaks, picturesque bridges, and meandering walking paths. With riding stables, tennis courts, jogging trails, and a tranquil lagoon, it’s an ideal respite from the boisterous city.
- Courtesy of Hotel Peter & Paul
- Courtesy of Hotel Saint Vincent
- Courtesy of Maison de la Luz Hotel
- Courtesy of Galatoire’s Restaurant
- Courtesy of Black Penny
- Courtesy of Lilette Restaurant
- Courtesy of The Sazerac Bar
- Courtesy of Lucullus
- Courtesy of Faulkner House Books
- Courtesy of Peaches Records and Tapes
- Courtesy of Euclid Records
- Courtesy of Besthoff Sculpture Garden
- Courtesy of New Orleans Pharmacy Museum
- Courtesy of Audubon Park
